A Sabbatical… Underground: My San Callisto Experience

When I arrived at the community of the Catacombs of San Callisto on 21 January, I received a warm Salesian welcome from the rector and Fr Paschal from ZMB. Providence arranged my arrival at a curious moment: the catacombs were closed to the public, and many confreres had taken the opportunity for family visits. Out of a lively community of eighteen, we were only six at the table, proof that even in Rome, the early Church experience of “small communities” is still alive!

Gradually, the confreres returned, and by 12 February the house was fully operational again. In fact, the full community is quite an international gathering: 18 confreres from 14 different countries. One could say the catacombs are not only ancient but also wonderfully global. One thing quickly became clear: if anyone imagines a sabbatical here as a comfortable armchair, a quiet book, and perhaps a contemplative espresso… well, the catacombs may kindly invite you to reconsider. Down here, even “rest” has to pass through a staircase.

Meanwhile, I began Italian school on 2 February at the A2 level, bravely skipping the beginner stage thanks to some previous knowledge and, I must confess, the tireless evangelising efforts of the Duolingo owl. After a month, I completed the level and have now progressed to B1, which should conclude at the end of March. In short, the martyrs spoke Latin, the pilgrims speak everything else, and I am trying my best to keep up in Italian.

Life here moves at a brisk pace. I return from school around 1:50 p.m., have lunch, and complete assignments, and by 3:00 p.m., I am already back in the catacombs. Our principal task is guiding pilgrims and tourists through the underground galleries. Each visit lasts about 55 minutes and departs every half hour in various languages. My own apostolate is in English.

The schedule runs from 8:45 a.m. until 6:00 p.m., with a modest lunch break of about ninety minutes. This continues every day except Wednesday, when the catacombs is closed to the public. Among ourselves, we call Wednesday “our Sunday”, a small resurrection in the middle of the week.

What makes the experience fascinating is the challenge it presents: imagine meeting people you may never see again and having just 55 minutes to transmit something of faith. Through the stories of the martyrs, the witness of the early Christians, and the memory of the popes buried there, the catacombs themselves become a kind of underground catechism. The walls do not speak, but somehow, they preach.

For me, this sabbatical has become something different from what I first imagined. I expected perhaps a quieter period of study (mercifully without exams). Instead, I discovered another way of being Salesian: changing the field of work while remaining fully in mission, even several metres beneath the surface of Rome.

One final note for confreres who might be considering a similar experience: there are many rooms available here, especially for English-speaking confreres. And I can assure you, it is an experience worth having. Just be prepared… apostolic life sometimes leads us to unexpected places. In this case, quite literally underground.

Fr Adetiloye Matthew